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Dope-Free Dairy

March 24th, 2009 · 14 Comments

Part IV in the Sustainable Family Supper series

dairy cow

What’s the matter with rBST? I’ve written before about how my path to natural and organic food began with a look at milk. When I became pregnant with my son, milk took on a renewed significance as I eliminated sodas and caffeinated beverages from my diet. I finally got around to reading up on bovine growth hormones, a.k.a. rBST or rBGH. You probably already know that they are artificial hormones designed to increase estrogen in female cows, thus increasing their milk production. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved its use in 1993, and like with so many other issues, refused to reexamine its safety despite growing consumer pressure and health concerns. The problem, or problems, are that the unnatural increase in production leads cows to develop infections at much greater rates, requiring them to be more heavily treated with antibiotics, which are passed on to milk consumers and flow out into soil and water with the cows’ waste. Then, there are studies linking rBST with increased breast, prostate and colon cancers in humans. The most galling part of the whole situation, in my opinion, is the ridiculous requirement by the FDA that requires dairy producers who label their milk rBST-free to include a disclaimer stating that “there is no difference between milk from cows treated with rBST and those who are not.” Actually, there are scientific studies showing that rBST is harmful and yet the burden is on the good actors to refrain from impugning the “good” name of the producers who continue to use rBST in the face of such studies.

Consumers Fight Back: The good news is that after repeatedly losing attempts in state legislatures to ban the use of rBST-free labels entirely (hello consumers’ right to know what they’re eating!), in the face of growing consumer pressure against the use of artificial hormones, its creator Monsanto actually sold off the product last year. Meanwhile, consumer campaigns targeting major dairy companies and grocers have successfully forced many companies to voluntarily reject the use of milk from cows treated with rBST. You can sign up to receive alerts from the Organic Consumers Association (OCA) to stay apprised of the latest. Food & Water Watch offers downloadable and mobile (iPhone/Blackberry) lists of rBST-free brands by state. Last month, Dannon and Yoplait joined the roster of major yogurt producers rejecting rBST milk (Stoneyfield has never used it). In the cheese world, Tillamook‘s farmer cooperative led the industry in adopting a rBST-free policy back in 2005. Cabot Creamery is the latest to get on the drug-free dairy bandwagon, announcing that they will finally stop accepting rBST-containing milk as of August 1, 2009. Even *some* Kraft cheese products (2% milk line) are rBST-free.

Next Stop, Schools: So if consumers won’t buy it, where’s rBST-treated cows milk going? Some is still in use commercially, and of course much winds up in schools. Food & Water Watch has a campaign underway, coinciding with this year’s reauthorization of the Child Nutrition Act, urging Congress to give schools the ability to let schools choose to use rBST-free and/or organic milk. According to Food & Water Watch, one out of five pints of the milk served to public schoolchildren may contain rBST. (Visit their School Milk action center to learn more.)

Better Yet, Drink Organic: If you already drink rBST-free milk, you might also want to consider organic. If you have to choose what to buy organic, organic milk and meat may be more beneficial than organic produce because the pesticides on cows’ feed are concentrated in their digestive system – and nonorganic feed includes genetically-modified (GMO) grain. And make sure that you’re choosing a brand that scores well on the Cornucopia Institute organic dairy study, because while organic certification guarantees that cows are fed GMO- and pesticide-free grain, it does not guarantee that the cows were allowed to graze on grass or treated humanely. Certain big-organic producers (Aurora and Horizon, notably) are only slightly better than conventional feedlot operations. (There’s a reason some store-brand “organic” milk is priced significantly lower – avoid Safeway, Giant, Publix and Costco store brands, which are sourced from Aurora Organics, a company found by the USDA to have “willfully” violated 14 criteria of the federal organic standard. Visit the Organic Consumer Association action page to sign a petition asking these company CEOs to boycott green-washing “organic” suppliers.)

We’re lucky to have a local, though not organic-certified, dairy delivery service, but when I have to buy milk between deliveries or on the road, I try to find Organic Valley. They are a co-operative of farms organized regionally, so the milk you buy may actually be fairly locally-produced, and they provide support to their farmers to make their farms more environmentally-friendly, such as helping their member farms obtain grants to place wind turbines on their farms. I attended a presentation by an Organic Valley farmer at last fall’s Green Festival and fell in love with the adorable pictures of his happy little cows and tale of how they prefer listening to rock music over classical. A recent study found that cows who are called by name (typically signifying a higher level of care) produce more milk, naturally. I may be a little idealistic, but shouldn’t every cow live like that?

What About Raw Milk? I haven’t read enough yet to take an informed opinion on the highly controversial issue of raw milk. Its sale is banned here in Maryland and Virginia (unless in a “cow share” program in VA), so I haven’t had the option of trying it. (At least not since I was a kid with cow-owning friends! Its true nothing else tastes like truly fresh milk.) On the one hand, I’m inclined to trust farmers who are praticing time-tested method,s and raw milk proponents insist that there are a wealth of health benefits to drinking raw. On the other hand, cows are naturally dirty animals! (That’s not a scientific argument, just an observation.) All the more reason to get to know your food’s producers, of course, whatever the product. At any rate, if you want to learn more, CheeseSlave has a great post on the reasons she chooses raw milk and links to more resources.

Tags: behind the label · dairy · eco-friendly · organic · sustainable family supper

14 responses so far ↓

  • 1 saucy salsita // Mar 24, 2009 at 3:43 pm

    thanks for the article. this is heartbreaking to me in some ways, because costa rica simply doesn’t have any organic milk options at all!!!!!!! and my son drinks soooo much milk that i simply dont know what alternatives to take.
    i’m searching though…
    Saucy Salsita, AKA The Green, Sexy Expat – Greening it up in Costa Rica!

  • 2 Sylvie, Rappahannock Cook & Kitchen Gardener // Mar 24, 2009 at 8:32 pm

    Another “local” options for you is Trickling Spring, a small dairy based in Chambersburg, PA. I get their buttermilk, cream & occasionally milk. They have organic. ( not sure about distribution in DC. I get mine through a country store

    But I prefer pastured organic milk – like what I get in my cow share.

    Colleen, the cow is naturally not dirtier an animal than people! Actually cleaner than a bunch I use to know. They do tolerate dirt – does not mean they like it. And that’s the issue, lots of cows – especially grain-fed which makes them sick – crammed into a barn with accumulating fecal matter and little room to move around (let alone access to pasture and sunshine) is not a good idea for raw milk. I would not dream of getting that! But raw milk from a small pastured herd that’s milked carefully in a sanitary fashion by somebody I know (and whose process I know) is wonderful. The flavor of the milk also changes as the cow grass regimen changes with the season.

  • 3 Shannon // Mar 25, 2009 at 6:43 pm

    As a dairy farmer I thank you for drinking milk. We take the stance that “all milk is milk”, but I see some issues with your facts. Please see the site below for the correct facts about rBST, pesticides and anitbiotics.

  • 4 foodietots
    Twitter: foodietots
    // Mar 30, 2009 at 2:14 pm

    @ Saucy – I’m intrigued by your dilemma. Growth hormones are banned in many countries, I wonder if Costa Rican dairies use them? I once read a quote from a French winemaker that biodynamic wine was just a fancy way of saying the winemakers were too cheap to use pesticides. (!) But it does make you wonder if less affluent countries use less chemical inputs than we do here in the states. Or if they get just as many since our companies have excess to share… ?

    @ Sylvie – I love Trickling Springs and get it here at MOM’s (local organic grocer), especially when I decide during the week I need buttermilk or heavy cream. I’ll be doing a post listing some of the local options soon, but how lucky you get yours in a cow share!

    And I’m sure you’re right about (well-cared for) cows not really being that dirty. I wouldn’t hesitate to drink raw milk myself, but I do sometimes wonder about the safety claims of its opponents. I do not pretend to understand how milk can be more heavily regulated than tobacco, however!!

    @ Shannon – Well, thanks for the interesting, and clearly biased, link. I suppose “all milk is milk” is accurate in the sense that “all beef is beef,” but I prefer mine in both cases to be from humanely-raised, artificial-chemical, GMO-free, grassfed cows, just the same.

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  • 8 Blender Benefits // Dec 31, 2009 at 10:16 am

    Saucy Salsita, I believe Amazon sells organic horizon milk. If you can combine that with a discount code, theny ou can probably get it on the cheap. Hope that helps.
    .-= Blender Benefits´s last blog post ..Dec 29, A Kitchenaid Blender May Be Your Best Bet – Some of the most affordable best blenders Around =-.

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